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Rudder Cables
allipp01
02/19/11 #10102
Does anyone in Bellingham install cables on surfskis or canoes?
I was also thinking I may be able to do it myself, but don't have the proper crimping tools. Would getting stainless steel fishing leader at LFS or another fishing supply store work? And if so, what strength test leader should I get? Any advice would be appreciated.
Alan
Reivers Dustin
02/19/11 #10105
caution: personal recognizance required.
I've replaced rudder cables on several surfski's. I recommend Sterling's Kayaks for professional support for quality local work.
My Huki S1-X broke a rudder cable near the DNR park at Lummi a few years ago. I fashioned an untrustworthy fix from my GPS strap and had support from LB as I gently worked my way back to Marine Park. I have watched many struggle with rudder problems including an instance of physically carrying the boat back along the railroad tracks to Marine Park.
(Rudder is almost as important as flotation - especially in rough conditions.)
We've talked about Brandon's gizmo (I have one) and rudder wedges allowing one to limp home with a busted rudder cable.
I paid full price for Jude's replacement rudder system which is more robust than Huki's first design. All Huki boats sold in the last few years have the more robust design. The nearest places to find the genuine swage machines for his deep swage fittings are in Vancouver, BC or Seattle WA rigging shops (I found one in each city). These are $12,000 machines with tooling. Result: I used vice-grips on the stainless fittings and cable.
The stainless cable and copper crush-fittings are available at Hardware Sales as well as LFS and Redden Marine. Take a sample of the existing to match the size (1/16th inch is typical). Buy extra length. Take great care to get the lengths exactly equal. Take care to crimp for positive grip without excessive deformation. (Excessive deformation will accelerate corrosion.) If any of this is worrisome, hire a professional. Steering is not an accessory - it is an integral component of the seaworthiness of your system.
Or you can buy Morris a beer and ask for his help. He's such a mcguyver type guy. (Don't take a six-pack or you'll be paddling around in circles.)
rd
Dale McKinnon
02/19/11 #10107
I have had Hardware Sales swage 1/8“ cable for me (in the pipe shop, in back) into eyelets for deck hardware. Not sure what diameter your cable needs are but it might be worth investigating HSs capapcities/abilities. I don't know how thin they can go.
Morris Arthur <marthur@…> 02/19/11 #10109
West Marine will let you borrow their swaging tools for making your own wire loops.
(I've done this for surfskis…. in their parking lot.)
allipp01 02/20/11 #10111
Mahalo everyone,
I used 1/16 stainless cables and crimps from LFS. Took it out for a test run at Bloedel and one crimp came off right away, so I went back and crimped them almost flat with channel lock pliers. I guess according to Rievers, they may not last as long, but I'm sure they will now hold……I'll go out in the lake again for another test run before I try the Bay!
steven wort
02/20/11 #10112
The race course on green lake uses 1/8th stainless, and we have a $200 hand tool to apply the crimps when we need to fix breaks in it.
I would expect a tool for 1/16th wire to be a lot less?
steven wort 02/20/11 #10113
Has no one thought about doing this the proper way, which would be to splice in the fittings?
With 1/16th wire, a splice should go in pretty easy ;)
romoigula 02/22/11 #10126
Alan, or anyone, I bought a crimping tool if you'd like to borrow it. We're not talking about a multi-thousand dollar model, but it works well enough.
Lance Romo
allipp01
02/22/11 #10130
Thanks Lance,
I was too cheap to buy the $25.00 crimping tool they had at LFS…..I only paid $4.00 for the cable and another few cents for each crush fitting, so, being ever the thrifty guy, couldn't get myself to cough up the extra dough for the proper tool…..the channel locks seemed to do the job, albeit perhaps too well.
