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| ==== Stuck Rudder ==== | ==== Stuck Rudder ==== | ||
| - | **Reivers Dustin** \\ | + | * [[:repair#rudders|Repair Page - Rudder Related Fixes]] |
| - | 02/19/15 #16895 | + | |
| + | **Reivers Dustin** \\ 02/19/15 #16895 | ||
| Typical sticky rudder is from bent rudder shaft due to bumping into something. Other cause might be wroing rudder being installed. | Typical sticky rudder is from bent rudder shaft due to bumping into something. Other cause might be wroing rudder being installed. | ||
| Line 12: | Line 13: | ||
| Oh, and if the rudder shaft is distorted, its best to replace it since it will continue to flex the rudder tube inside the boat. Very difficult for the average guy to get the rudder shaft true again. Probably Don K can. I've fussed and fiddled and ended up getting rid of the rudder (I think donated to Don K, since he needs rudder shafts - be sure to tell him the exact boat the rudder came from). | Oh, and if the rudder shaft is distorted, its best to replace it since it will continue to flex the rudder tube inside the boat. Very difficult for the average guy to get the rudder shaft true again. Probably Don K can. I've fussed and fiddled and ended up getting rid of the rudder (I think donated to Don K, since he needs rudder shafts - be sure to tell him the exact boat the rudder came from). | ||
| - | \\ | + | \\ **Larry <lbussinger@…>** \\ 02/19/15 #16896 |
| - | **Larry <lbussinger@…>** \\ | + | |
| - | 02/19/15 #16896 | + | |
| - | I think I've seen where the manufacturer or new rudder supplier has changed shaft diameters slightly, so when you get it out, you should check it with a micrometer.\\ | + | I think I've seen where the manufacturer or new rudder supplier has changed shaft diameters slightly, so when you get it out, you should check it with a micrometer. \\ Larry B |
| - | Larry B | + | |
| - | **JD Davies <jd@…>** \\ | + | **JD Davies <jd@…>** \\ 02/19/15 #16897 |
| - | 02/19/15 #16897 | + | |
| For a while Epic used an aluminum rudder rod which corroded in salt water over time and would then seize up. | For a while Epic used an aluminum rudder rod which corroded in salt water over time and would then seize up. | ||
| - | If this is the case all you need to do is get the old one out and a new one in.. The new ones are solid stainless and will\\ | + | If this is the case all you need to do is get the old one out and a new one in.. The new ones are solid stainless and will \\ not corrode. You should not need to lube the new setup if it fits properly. |
| - | not corrode. You should not need to lube the new setup if it fits properly. | + | |
| JD | JD | ||
| - | **Bob Putnam** \\ | + | **Bob Putnam** \\ 02/19/15 #16898 |
| - | 02/19/15 #16898 | + | |
| - | JD is right on track. Its best to remove the rudders on older Epic boats if they are going to sit for the winter. Fluid Film and patience may help de-seize the rudder post. We have seen some that require surgery, with the rudder box needing to be rebuilt. Hopefully this is not that bad.\\ | + | JD is right on track. Its best to remove the rudders on older Epic boats if they are going to sit for the winter. [[https://www.fluid-film.com/|Fluid Film]] and patience may help de-seize the rudder post. We have seen some that require surgery, with the rudder box needing to be rebuilt. Hopefully this is not that bad. \\ |
| Bob | Bob | ||
| - | **waterbornewarrior** \\ | + | **waterbornewarrior** \\ 02/19/15 #16899 |
| - | 02/19/15 #16899 | + | |
| JD and Bob are most likely correct about it being a corroded aluminum shaft. Hopefully you can remove it. You might have some luck dissolving the corrosion with an oil, acid, or ammonia, but first try cooling the area. The aluminum will contract but the composite around it will not. This is how I de-mold carbon rudder blades from aluminum molds - I put them in the freezer for a few minutes! So put some ice in the rudder well and/or wrap the area around the rudder with ice packs. Or drive it to the east coast. Once it’s chilled, tap the top of the shaft with a mallet and hopefully it will start moving. Once the top of the shaft is down in the tube you’ll have to use some kind of push rod to keep tapping it through. | JD and Bob are most likely correct about it being a corroded aluminum shaft. Hopefully you can remove it. You might have some luck dissolving the corrosion with an oil, acid, or ammonia, but first try cooling the area. The aluminum will contract but the composite around it will not. This is how I de-mold carbon rudder blades from aluminum molds - I put them in the freezer for a few minutes! So put some ice in the rudder well and/or wrap the area around the rudder with ice packs. Or drive it to the east coast. Once it’s chilled, tap the top of the shaft with a mallet and hopefully it will start moving. Once the top of the shaft is down in the tube you’ll have to use some kind of push rod to keep tapping it through. | ||
| - | I know a guy who builds nice replacement rudders… surski@… | + | I know a guy who builds nice replacement rudders… surfski@gmail.com… |
| Don | Don | ||
| - | **Michael Gregory** \\ | + | **Michael Gregory** \\ 02/19/15 #16900 |
| - | 02/19/15 #16900 | + | |
| - | I had an older Epic aluminum shaft seize-up in the rudder post. A couple of things seemed to help free-up the shaft; take a a few vigorous taps down on the head of the shaft with a mallet then apply torque, repeat til the shaft moves. I don't know that penetrating oil is helpful but, maybe:/ | + | I had an older Epic aluminum shaft seize-up in the rudder post. A couple of things seemed to help free-up the shaft; take a a few vigorous taps down on the head of the shaft with a mallet then apply torque, repeat til the shaft moves. I don't know that penetrating oil is helpful but, maybe:/ |
| Mike. | Mike. | ||
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